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How do I plan the first production run for a new clothing brand?

Plan the first run one design at a time: a design you will order 36 or more of goes on screen printing, which gives the lowest price per shirt (about $7.73 per shirt for a 1-color front at 36 pieces, $3.77 at 100), and anything smaller goes on DTG, which has no minimum and no setup fee. Put the budget into a blank your customers would buy at retail, usually a heavyweight cotton tee, and size the run around the middle sizes. If the shirts are going on a rack or into a shop, add finishing: a printed tagless neck label or a sewn woven label, hangtags, and fold and polybag, all priced per piece on the same quote.

Last updated October 17, 2026 · Printed in Santa Fe Springs, CA · (562) 407-3800

Choose the print method per design, by quantity

The method is a quantity decision before it is a style decision. Screen printing needs 36 pieces of the same design in the same ink colors, and once you clear that line it is the cheapest and most durable way to print a 1- to 4-color graphic. Below 36 pieces of a design, DTG prints straight from the file onto the shirt with no screens and no minimum, about $15.00 per shirt at 12 pieces on a light garment.

A common first-drop pattern is one hero design deep enough to screen print, plus a few test designs on DTG. The volume tier is set by the total pieces on the order across all designs, so the hero design and the tests price together, while each design still has to reach 36 on its own to run on screens. Two designs at 18 pieces each are both under the line.

Spend on the blank

For a brand, the shirt is the product, so the blank is where a first run should spend. Heavyweight cotton tees with a relaxed or boxy fit are the staple of streetwear and lifestyle brands, and garment-dyed tees give the washed, vintage color that customers associate with premium merch. A light, budget tee with the same print reads as a giveaway.

As a reference point, a Comfort Colors 1717 starts around $11.34 per piece at the current catalog price with our standard markup, before printing. We bill every blank at wholesale times 1.75, and the calculator prices the exact style and size run you pick.

Finishing turns a printed shirt into a product

Retail-ready means the garment carries your brand, not the blank maker's. These are the finishing services we offer, each priced per piece and shown as its own line on the quote:

  • Tagless neck print: your label printed inside the neck in place of the manufacturer tag.
  • Woven labels: custom woven brand labels sewn into the neck or side seam, including producing the labels themselves.
  • Label removal: the manufacturer label taken out cleanly before relabeling. Some heavyweight blanks ship with tear-away labels, which makes this step simpler.
  • Hangtags and UPC stickers for shops and wholesale accounts.
  • Fold and polybag, so each piece arrives ready to ship or shelve.

Size run, samples and timing

With no sales history, weight the run toward medium, large and extra large, keep the smallest and largest sizes thin, and plan to reorder what sells. Extended sizes from 2XL up carry a size upcharge on the blank, and the calculator shows it before you commit.

Before committing to the full run, a single DTG print of the design on your chosen blank is a cheap way to check fit, color and placement; just keep in mind DTG looks flatter and softer than a screen print of the same art. Standard turnaround is about 2-3 weeks after the artwork is approved and the deposit is paid, so set the launch date from there and approve the proof in one pass.

Frequently asked

How many shirts should a new clothing brand order first?
Enough of your strongest design to screen print it, which means 36 or more pieces of that one design, and only as many of the others as you can sell. Test designs can run on DTG in small numbers because DTG has no minimum, then move to screen printing once a design proves it sells.
Screen printing or DTG for a clothing brand?
Both, by design. Screen printing for any design you order 36 or more of: it is cheaper per shirt at volume and it is the most durable print. DTG for short runs, samples and full-color or photographic art, since it has no minimum and no setup fee.
Can you put my brand label in the shirts?
Yes. We print tagless neck labels, sew in custom woven labels (and can produce the woven labels), remove the original manufacturer labels, and add hangtags, UPC stickers and fold-and-polybag packaging. Each is priced per piece and appears as its own line on the quote.
What blank t-shirt do clothing brands use?
Usually a heavyweight cotton tee in a relaxed or boxy fit, often garment-dyed. The Comfort Colors 1717, Bella+Canvas 3010 and the super-heavy Shaka Wear and Bella+Canvas 4610 tees are the usual shortlist; see our heavyweight blanks answer for weights and current prices.
What artwork files do you need?
Vector artwork (AI, EPS, SVG or PDF) is best for screen printing. A high-resolution PNG at 300 DPI at print size works for DTG and many screen prints, and a transparent background helps. Screenshots and images pulled off a website are usually too low-resolution.
How long does a first run take?
Standard turnaround is about 2-3 weeks after the artwork is approved and the deposit is paid. Rush depends on the schedule, so tell us your launch date when you ask for the quote.

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