Ring-spun cotton is twisted into a finer, smoother yarn than open-end cotton, so it feels softer; combed means short fibers were brushed out first. Tri-blend mixes polyester, cotton and rayon for drape, and CVC is a cotton-majority poly blend. At French Press Custom in Santa Fe Springs, a 1-color print on 50 black tees runs $10.20 to $16.18 each depending on fabric.
Those terms show up on every spec sheet, and they matter more than brand names when you are choosing a shirt to print on. Below is what each one means, how it feels, how each print method behaves on it, and real blanks from our catalog for each type.
The quick comparison
| Fabric type | What it is | Feel | Example blanks in our catalog |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open-end cotton | Cotton spun quickly on a rotor, coarser yarn | Sturdier, a bit dry and textured | M&O 4300 (4.5 oz, open end), Tultex 299 (7.2 oz, open-end, 18 singles) |
| Standard cotton (not labeled ring-spun) | Classic workhorse tee cotton | Firm, durable, structured | Gildan 5000 (5.3 oz, 20 singles), Gildan 2000 (6 oz, 18 singles) |
| Ring-spun cotton | Fibers twisted and thinned into a finer yarn | Softer and smoother | Gildan 64000 (4.5 oz, 30 singles), Comfort Colors 1717 (6.1 oz, 20 singles) |
| Combed ring-spun cotton | Short fibers combed out, then ring-spun | Softest, smoothest 100% cotton | Bella+Canvas 3001 (4.2 oz, 32 singles), Next Level 3600 (4.3 oz, 32 singles) |
| CVC | "Chief value cotton," a blend with more cotton than polyester | Soft, slightly smoother drape, shrinks less than cotton | Bella+Canvas 3001CVC (4.2 oz, 52/48), Next Level 6210 (4.3 oz, 60/40) |
| 50/50 | Equal cotton and polyester | Light, easy care, classic team-shirt feel | Gildan 8000 DryBlend (5.5 oz, 50/50) |
| Tri-blend | Polyester, cotton and rayon | Very soft, drapey, heathered vintage look | Bella+Canvas 3413 (3.8 oz, 50/25/25), Next Level 6010 (4.2 oz, 50/25/25) |
Specs are from the S&S Activewear catalog descriptions. Weights are ounces per square yard. Many 100% cotton tees switch to a blend in heather colors: on the Gildan 5000, heather colors are 50/50 cotton/poly and Sport Grey is 90/10, so check the color, not just the style.
What does ring-spun mean?
Ring spinning twists cotton fibers tightly while drawing them thinner, again and again, into a fine continuous yarn. The result is a smoother, softer yarn with fewer loose fiber ends sticking out. A ring-spun tee feels softer in the hand and has a smoother face for printing.
The catalog number to look at is singles, the yarn count. Higher singles means finer yarn. The Bella+Canvas 3001 and Next Level 3600 are 32 singles, the Gildan 64000 is 30, the Gildan 5000 is 20, and the Gildan 2000 is 18. Finer yarn usually means a lighter, softer, more retail-feeling shirt.
What does combed cotton mean?
Combing is an extra step before spinning that brushes out short fibers and debris, leaving long, aligned fibers. Combed and ring-spun together give the softest 100% cotton tees on the market. Bella+Canvas calls its version Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton. Combed tees also pill less, because there are fewer short fibers to work loose.
What is open-end cotton?
Open-end, or rotor, spinning makes yarn faster and at lower cost by spinning fibers in a rotor rather than drawing them out on a ring. The yarn is fuzzier and less uniform, so the shirt feels a bit drier and more textured. It is also sturdy, holds its shape, and suits promo, event and work shirts where price per piece matters. In our catalog, the M&O 4300 and Tultex 299 are labeled open-end. Classic tees like the Gildan 5000 and 2000 are listed simply as 100% U.S. cotton, without a ring-spun label.
What is a tri-blend shirt?
A tri-blend mixes polyester, cotton and rayon, most often 50/25/25. Rayon gives drape and a silky softness, polyester gives stretch and keeps shrinkage down, and cotton keeps it breathable. The three fibers take dye differently, which is where the heathered, vintage look comes from. Tri-blends are light and thin: the Bella+Canvas 3413 is 3.8 oz and the Next Level 6010 is 4.2 oz.
What does CVC mean?
CVC stands for chief value cotton, a blend where cotton is the larger share. The Bella+Canvas 3001CVC is 52/48 cotton/poly and the Next Level 6210 is 60/40. You get most of the feel of cotton with a little more smoothness, less shrinkage and richer heather colors. CVC tees are a popular middle ground for brands and staff shirts.
How does each fabric print?
| Fabric | Screen print, plastisol | Water-based or discharge | DTG | DTF | Embroidery |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Open-end or standard cotton | Excellent, bright and durable | Good | Good; texture can soften fine detail | Excellent | Excellent |
| Ring-spun or combed cotton | Excellent, crisp detail | Excellent, the softest result | Best results, smooth face | Excellent | Excellent |
| CVC | Very good | Softer, more muted look | Good, slightly muted | Excellent | Very good |
| 50/50 | Very good with the right ink | Muted | Muted colors | Excellent | Very good |
| Tri-blend | Good with low-bleed ink and a softer hand | Vintage, faded look | Muted, vintage look | Very good | Fine for small, light designs |
A few notes behind the table:
- DTG ink is made for cotton. The more polyester in the shirt, the more muted the print. Heather colors carry polyester and print a little softer on DTG. For bright DTG, pick 100% combed ring-spun cotton like the 3001 or 3600. See DTG printing.
- Polyester can bleed. On dyed polyester, shirt dye can migrate into a plastisol print over time, especially with white or light ink on red or dark shirts. Low-bleed inks solve it. Our guide to screen printing on polyester explains why.
- Discharge only removes cotton dye. On a blend, the polyester keeps its color, which gives a softer, vintage look rather than a clean bright print. More in what is discharge printing.
- DTF works on all of them, because the transfer bonds with an adhesive instead of soaking into the fiber. See DTF transfers.
- Thin tri-blends pucker under heavy embroidery. Keep stitched logos small, or move embroidery to a heavier shirt.
Do fabric types change the price?
The print price is set by quantity, ink colors and locations, not by the fabric. The blank is what changes. Here are real per-piece prices from our quote engine, all with the same 1-color front screen print on black.
| Blank | Fabric | 50 pcs, S to XL | 50 pcs, 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|
| M&O 4300 | Open-end cotton, 4.5 oz | $10.20 | $11.69 |
| Gildan 5000 | Standard cotton, 5.3 oz | $11.11 | $13.95 |
| Next Level 3600 | Combed ring-spun cotton, 4.3 oz | $13.19 | $16.01 |
| Next Level 6210 | CVC 60/40, 4.3 oz | $13.40 | $16.20 |
| Bella+Canvas 3001 | Combed ring-spun cotton, 4.2 oz | $13.86 | $16.47 |
| Next Level 6010 | Tri-blend 50/25/25, 4.2 oz | $16.18 | $18.98 |
Prices are per piece, before tax, with setup and the white underbase included. Sizes 2XL and up carry a supplier upcharge; the calculator prices every size in your mix.
How do you choose?
- Event, promo or work shirts on a budget: open-end or standard cotton, like the M&O 4300 or Gildan 5000.
- A shirt people will wear for years, or full-color DTG: combed ring-spun cotton, like the Bella+Canvas 3001 or Next Level 3600.
- A soft staff or brand tee that shrinks less: CVC, like the Next Level 6210.
- A vintage, drapey lifestyle tee: tri-blend, like the Next Level 6010 or Bella+Canvas 3413.
For brand-by-brand comparisons, see Bella+Canvas vs Gildan vs Next Level and Gildan 64000 vs Bella+Canvas 3001 vs Next Level 3600.
Our take
The fabric question we answer most is "why does my DTG print look better on this shirt than that one?" The answer is almost always the yarn. On a smooth combed ring-spun tee the ink sits on a tight, even surface and fine detail stays sharp; on a coarser cotton the same file looks a little softer. When the art is detailed or photographic, we steer toward a 3001 or 3600. When it is a bold one-color logo going to a crew, a sturdy standard cotton tee prints just as well and keeps the price down. On dark shirts we print a white underbase under the color either way, and it is already in the prices above.
Ordering from Los Angeles or Orange County
- Where we are. 14130 Rosecrans Ave, Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670, serving Los Angeles and Orange County.
- Minimums. DTG none, DTF 12, embroidery 24, screen printing 36 pieces per design.
- Timing. About 2-3 weeks after art approval. Rush available depending on the schedule. Tell us your date.
- Contact. Mon-Fri 8am-4pm PT, (562) 407-3800, sales@frenchpresscustom.com.
Browse every tee in our t-shirt catalog, or price your shirts now.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between ring-spun and regular cotton?
Ring-spun cotton is twisted and thinned into a finer, smoother yarn, so the shirt feels softer and prints with crisper detail. Regular or open-end cotton is coarser and sturdier. A ring-spun tee like the Bella+Canvas 3001 is 32 singles, against 20 singles on a Gildan 5000.
Is combed cotton better than ring-spun?
They are two different steps, and the best tees use both. Combing removes short fibers before spinning, and ring spinning makes the yarn finer. Combed ring-spun cotton is the softest 100% cotton option.
What is the softest t-shirt fabric?
Tri-blend is usually the softest and drapiest, followed by combed ring-spun cotton. The Next Level 6010 tri-blend and Next Level 3600 combed ring-spun tee are good examples from our catalog.
Can you screen print on tri-blend shirts?
Yes. Tri-blends print well with low-bleed ink and give a soft, slightly vintage result. A 1-color front on 50 black Next Level 6010 tri-blends is $16.18 per piece before tax at our shop.
What does CVC mean on a t-shirt?
CVC means chief value cotton, a blend with more cotton than polyester. The Next Level 6210 is 60/40 and the Bella+Canvas 3001CVC is 52/48.
Which fabric is best for DTG printing?
100% combed ring-spun cotton, like the Bella+Canvas 3001 or Next Level 3600. DTG ink is made for cotton, so blends and heathers print more muted.
